YakuQuest 2: Realm of the Gods

Miyanoura-dake is the highest point on Yakushima, and enigmatically it cannot be seen from anywhere on the coast. The inner mountains of Yakushima, called 'okudake' (奥岳) by islanders, are completely encircled by many tall 'maedake' (前岳) like the petals of a lotus. The maedake act as a rain curtain and the slopes become thick jungles of mists and moss. In the harsher and colder climates of the okudake, however, it's a totally different world. Bare and twisted trees stick out from waves of miniature bamboo-grass. Fantastically shaped granite boulders dot the landscape. The change from one to the next is abrupt and stunning, and islanders have long considered the okudake to be the home of the gods. Even today, villagers conduct 'Takemairi' pilgrimages to the various shrines tucked into natural caves in the okudake.


Thursday was overcast but with none of the bad weather expected. It was a pleasant hike through a forest in the midst of turning for autumn. Here and there through the trees were tantalizing glimpses of distant granite formations. Suddenly the trees opened, and I was in Hananoeigo, a highland marsh. It probably looks best with more water in it, but of course secure footing and a dry pack is an excellent tradeoff..

First detour off the trail was to Kuromidake. I would say this is an essential detour, as it affords a spectacular view of the main ridge of okudake. It's projected to be an hour return trip, but I don't think it's even that long. Also, you get to thinking "Hey, that's not so far! No sweat." Which is a great thing to be thinking at 8am, 2 hours into a hike.

The rest of the day was basically admire distant rock formation, approach and climb it, spot other distant rock formation, chunk of powerbar, swig of Yakushima mountain spring water, repeat. The trail is actually ridiculously easy. Due to high tourist traffic there are many stretches of boardwalk, and the trail is beautifully maintained yet does not encroach on the scenery.


Lunch was atop Miyanoura-dake. It wasn't even cold or windy. Hot instant soba while admiring the clouds swirling around Nagata-dake, the next peak over. Said goodbye to many of the day-trip hikers I'd come to know who were turning back at Miyanoura-dake. Funny thing is, I saw most of them the next day on the trail to Jomon Sugi-- me going out, them going in for yet another day trip. Japanese retirees are tough as nails.


After lunch was a two-hour detour to climb Nagata-dake. It was pretty lucky, because as I went up the clouds swept through the saddle and drenched the lower trails. The view from the top of Nagata-dake was largely obscured by mist, but it was only lightly drizzling when I returned to the main trail. In another hour, it was time to leave the okudake and descend into the thickly veiled forests of the maedake.

After a nine-hour day of climbing I finally reached the Shintakazuka hut. And just in time- it filled to capacity. Changing out of my sweaty clothes was practice in ignoring the unsubtle stares of various oji-sans. We all slept shoulder to shoulder, and it got so hot I stripped down to my underwear inside my sleeping bag. By the time people started stirring at 4:30, I wasn't sure if I had slept at all.