YakuMairi

Day four in Yakushima was spent driving the circumference of the island, apparently a very popular one-day activity. I met a group of hikers in the huts and got to know them a bit over the three days, and they invited me to go hiking and sightseeing with them. The plan was to hike Aiko-dake, but we had to call it on account of weather.

First the two main waterfalls in the South - Torooki (トロ沖の滝) and Senpiro (千尋の滝). Torooki (Toroo meaning "roar" in the Yakushima dialect, ki meaning the open sea) is unusual because it falls directly into the ocean. Senpiro (千尋) has the alternate reading of "Chihiro", which leaves me speculating that Miyazaki Hayao continues to draw inspiration from Yakushima. Next we drove clockwise to Okoo (大川の滝) which is designated as one of Japan's 100 finest. Unlike Sempiro, you can go right up to the pool to feel the roar and the spray. Cascading a beautiful 88 meters, this is one of my all-time favorites.

We then went in search of mangroves, which are common warmer climates but unusual up here. Nobody in the area seemed to know about them. Finally, we followed a tiny track to see this. "Regional Cultural Asset" the sign proudly exclaims.

The Western side of the island is a tiny rindou, or forest road. It's too narrow for buses to use. It's a great drive, with frequent stops for deer and monkeys.

We stopped to play in the Nagata river. They were a group of hikers, but they also did something called Sawa-nobori, which is a sport unique to Japan with its plentiful waterways. Instead of hiking by trail, you hike up rivers. We played in the water, jumped from rock to rock, and saved an unfortunate butterfly. It seemed like the leader was feeling me out, and at last asked if I could swim. At the affirmative, he invited me to come up to Kobe and try it next summer. I really, really can't wait.

A brief stop at Inaka-hama, the largest sea turtle egg-laying site in Japan. In the summer with good timing you can see the mothers coming to lay and the hatchlings making a break for the water. I'll definitely be back. Next was a botanical park whose main attraction was a medium sized banyan tree. It was strange to see people making a fuss over a banyan, but they are pretty cool.

Lunch was taken at the Kabocha-ya in Miyanoura. The curry is good, but the real deal seems to be the "Yakushima Ramen" which always sells out before noon. Then we went to the museum right next to the port. It was really interesting, with lots of English. The best part was the short film on an IMAX sized screen. You can ask for English subtitles, but they're really horrible.

After an onsen visit, we went searching for a place to eat. It was really tough. On a long weekend, everywhere is packed. We ended up at Unsui, an izakaya next to Yakushima High School. The food was incredible. The saba sashimi was the best I've had in my life. The seafood was just exceptional.

I had such a great time. I learned tons about hiking, and think I finally have the courage to challenge the Japan Alps. They were so wonderful and funny, and yet again I completely resent my inabliltiy to communicate effectively. They kept encouraging me to move to Kobe. I've always wanted to live in Kansai. We'll see.. but for now, they set me to training for next summer. Until then.

I left the next day, but not without fulfilling two requirements. Following my firm belief that it takes muscle to build muscle, I went to the popular restaurant Renga-ya in Anbo to break my meat-fast (I'd eaten only seafood that week). It's a yakiniku place famous for serving deer (not Yakushika of course, New Zealand) The Yakushima teishoku includes beef, pork, venison, and shikasashi (deer sashimi). It was really, really good. Next, I acquired some of the elusive Mitake shochu. Produced on Yakushima, it's an extremely popular brand that has become impossible to find of late-- even on Yakushima. It's so smooth you can drink it straight. I think I'll go do that.